-
97
/ 100
James Suckling -
96
/ 100
Gary Walsh -
96
/ 100
Huon Hooke
White
Classification
Chardonnay
Variety
2023
Vintage
750ml (Bottle)
Bottle Size
Australia
Country
Western Australia, Margaret River
Region
13.5%
Alcohol %
15 Plus Years
Cellaring
Awards
Halliday 5 Red Stars WineryScores
97 / 100"I like this very much, the intensity dial turned down a notch, and there is an even flow of fruit-weight and freshness, with a curb of well-placed phenolics. The epithet is one of strident poise and restrained fruit, long and detailed across the mid-weighted palate. The oak is beautifully nestled, melding with a subtle nuttiness, effortlessly sublimated into the greater whole. An excellent Kevin John. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2027. Screw cap."
- James Suckling
96 / 100
"Made from 100% dry farmed biodynamically certified Wente/Gin Gin clone planted between 1976 and 1988. Australian Chardonnay is so good. Now packaged in a lighter bottle weighing 360 grams, as opposed to the old one which was 560 grams. Very good. Well done. Now lets get rid of those ‘flagship’ (usually red, aspirational, and anachronistic) wines weighing in at nearly 1kg… As an aside, I taste nearly all wines from a Plumm Three No.3 Burgundy glass these days, such a pleasing and durable glass. For light whites and sparkling, I tend to use Gabriel glass. Peach and dried pear, plenty of spice, cedar, brittle toffee and vanilla, cumquat, lime and white flower. It’s a powerful expression of Wilyabrup Chardonnay, intense in acidity and flavour, it has spice and plenty of grip, lime nougat, a milk powder richness, and a bold finish of excellent length. Positively dripping with golden flavour and energy, but so very good."
- Gary Walsh
96 / 100
"Light-medium yellow colour, quite full in its youth; the bouquet shows toasted almond, cashew and coconut aromas, spicy oak and some fluffy yeast lees traces, while the palate is rich and generous, quite forward and giving, with an impresison of fruit sweetness and a clean finish with perfectly judged phenolics giving it an appetising conclusion. A rich, generous and quite open-knit style of chardonnay that's already drinking well."
- Huon Hooke
Tasting Notes
Grown in the ancient soils of Wilyabrup the wines come from the heart of the land rather than the mind of the winemaker. The wines are made with little or no intervention. This means indigenous yeast, no additions of any kind, minimal oak use and fining. Quality is paramount in this process and every step in winemaking incorporates this philosophy. The wines can only be as good as the grapes, the quality and uniqueness of Cullen Wines comes in part from the vineyard with the role of the winemaker is to act as caretaker to the fruit – to understand and to realise the full potential of the vineyard and the fruit which comes into the winery.
The soils at Cullen are old, granite and gravely sandy loam, overlaying lateritic subsoils. The vines are dry farmed, helping to ensure maximum fruit quality, and are both pruned and harvested by hand. Low yields enable the flavours of the grapes to develop fully. Since 1971 when the Cullen Estate was planted, chemical intervention was minimal and the family’s concern for the environment paramount. Cullen is now carbon neutral and certified bio-dynamic. Vanya Cullen was awarded Halliday Wine Companion Winemaker of the Year 2020.
The 2023 Kevin John is a powerful, bold, textural, example of a point in the journey with no end of discovering terroir through biodynamics. Picked across three weeks according to the biodynamic calendar, capturing fruit and flower days, from a full Moon, Moon opposite Saturn astral event to the new moon flower day in late February.
Hand harvested, whole bunch basket pressed. Fermented in concrete egg, amphorae and biodynamic puncheons. Eight months maturation in biodynamic oak puncheons of which 80% were new, bottled without fining or filtration. Made from 100% dry farmed biodynamically certified Wente/Gin Gin clone planted on their 1976-1988. Yield 1.7 tons per hectare. Will age well for 20 years under screwcap in the new lightweight bottle.
Tasting Profile
- Light
- Full
- Low Tannin
- Tannic
- Sweet
- Dry
- Low Acidity
- High Acidity